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“About dram time”
Our whisky compass swings north, across tempestuous seas, to Orkney – a land where Viking sagas whisper on the wind and the legendary Highland Park distillery stands, a testament to time itself. One of Scotland's nine remaining 18th-century distilleries, Highland Park is more than a distillery; it's a living history. And such is the depth of its story, and the raw beauty of its home, that we’ve decided to unfold this adventure in two parts, to truly capture the wild harmony of Orkney and its celebrated whisky.
Imagine a place where the Atlantic and North Sea clash, where winter winds howl at a hundred miles per hour, and where a cluster of seventy islands – twenty inhabited – rise from the churning waters. This is Orkney, a stark and stunning archipelago, a world apart. Look further north, and you'll find Shetland, another constellation of islands, adding to Scotland’s rich tapestry of over 800 isles, divided amongst Orkney, Shetland, and the Hebrides.
Here, in this remote and rugged landscape, barley has reigned supreme since Neolithic times. It's a grain that shaped civilizations, giving us bread, beer, and ultimately, whisky. Bere barley, a hardy six-row variety, adapted to this challenging environment, became a staple, and even today, some distillers, echoing Highland Park’s own past, embrace its unique character.
Orkney's Viking heritage runs deep. From the 8th and 9th centuries, Norse settlers left their mark, bringing with them "bigg," their name for bere barley, embedding it into the island’s agricultural soul. Kirkwall, Orkney's capital, a Royal Burgh since 1486, whispers of this Norse past in its very name, "Kirkjuvagr," meaning church on the bay.
Nestled in a serene, landlocked bay, surrounded by grassy hills and the salty kiss of the sea, Kirkwall is the perfect stage for Highland Park’s maturation. Here, the elements shape the whisky, imbuing it with a character as distinct as the island itself.
Orkney is a treasure trove of experiences. From the haunting remnants of the scuttled German fleet in Scapa Flow to the ancient Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar, history resonates in every stone. But for a true immersion into Scotland's distilling legacy and Viking heritage, Highland Park beckons.
Founded in 1798 by the enigmatic Magnus Eunson – butcher by day, illicit distiller by night, and church officer on Sundays – Highland Park is steeped in legend. Eunson’s tales of hiding his “uisque beatha” in church walls and coffins add a delicious layer of intrigue. Even the excise officer who apprehended Eunson, John Robertson, couldn't resist the allure, eventually taking over the distillery himself. Today, under the stewardship of the Edrington Group, alongside The Macallan and Glenrothes, Highland Park continues to craft a whisky that transcends time.
Step through the distillery’s ancient gates, and you’re transported to the 19th century. Grey stone walls guide you on a journey, while the subtle scents of heather, honey, smoke, and grain tantalise, hinting at the magic within.
Highland Park’s distinctiveness lies in its unwavering commitment to five keystones. First, the rare art of hand-turned traditional floor malting, a testament to craftsmanship in an age of automation. Second, the use of Hobbister Moor peat, a local treasure that imparts a delicate, floral smokiness, unlike any other.
Join us in our next edition as we delve deeper into Highland Park's secrets, exploring the vital role of sherry-seasoned oak casks, the influence of Orkney’s cool climate, and the meticulous art of cask harmonisation. We'll unravel the final three keystones that elevate Highland Park to its legendary status, a whisky as captivating as the wild seas that surround its island home.
This article was written by Mark Hickey, the National Brand Ambassador for Spirits Platform and runs a whisky blog called the Whisky Traveller.
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